Chinon, in the heart of the Loire Valley, at the junction of the provinces of Touraine, Poitou and Anjou, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also part of the network of Towns of Art and History. After a restoration project unprecedented in Europe, the Royal Fortress has regained its former military splendor. Visit this heritage site, follow in the footsteps of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry II of England. Follow in the footsteps of Joan of Arc, who walked the streets of this fortified town. Rediscover the story of Richard the Lionheart and the Knights Templar, who were held captive at the Fortress.

Discovering Chinon

• The fortified town – Once surrounded by ramparts, the fortified town developed between the fortress and the Vienne River. Numerous listed buildings are located here, including the Hôtel Bodard de la Jacopière, which is currently undergoing a program of activities and renovations. At the western end, head to the antique shop Au Vieux Marché and don’t miss the spectacular Caves Plouzeau, try the restaurants Les Années 30 and Les Tannins, and take a look at the Saint-Maurice church. On Rue Voltaire, BrasseFort offers beers brewed on site. The Cave Voltaire has a fine wine selection and serves cheese and charcuterie platters. In season, La Dilettante offers wine tastings from the Breton estate (Bourgueil).
• Musée du Carroi – In the center of the fortified town, an interesting museum chronicling the history of Chinon. Temporary exhibitions. Learn more here. Just opposite, Jacques Lacoste’s beautiful antique bookstore. From there, you can take the long ramp up to the fortress.
• Place de l’Hôtel de Ville – Perpendicular to the river. Small market on Sunday mornings. Numerous bars and terraces around the Three Graces fountain, in a picturesque setting. From there, you can take an elevator to the fortress. Antique shop La Boutique bleue. Restaurants: Le Nemrod is worth a visit. Just behind the Town Hall, don’t miss Le Café Français, La Libellule toquée, Restaurant Charbon, and La Cabane à Vin (wine bar).
• The Royal Fortress – An impressive series of fortified walls at the top of the hill. Ideal for picnics. You can simply enjoy the park and the panoramic view of the Vienne River, take a nap in a deckchair, explore using the signs, or hire a guide (recommended) for a comprehensive tour. Learn more here.
• The Hillside – A beautiful walk, starting from the fortress (Saint-Martin hillside) and heading east to Sainte-Radegonde hillside. Small houses, gardens, and numerous troglodyte dwellings carved into the tufa stone. At the end of the walk, visit the troglodyte chapel of Sainte-Radegonde.
• The Canons’ Quarter – As you descend the hillside, head for the two bell towers of the Saint-Mexme collegiate church, and you will arrive at a small square surrounded by beautiful houses built for its canons in the 15th century. Heading east on Rue Diderot, you’ll be back at the hotel. If you continue for 100 meters, you can visit Cave Couly-Dutheil (shop, tours, wine tasting). If you head south, you’ll reach Place Jeanne d’Arc (large market on Thursdays) and the Vienne River. On the edge of the neighborhood, take a look at the restoration work on the Chinon Jeu de Paume, one of the oldest in France.
• Banks of the Vienne – A pleasant place for a stroll or a picnic. Large flea market on the third Sunday of the month. Heading east, you’ll pass under the old railway bridge (created by the Eiffel workshops), then, by turning right onto the dirt road, you’ll reach La Belle Laveuse, once a favorite beach for the people of Chinon, and now a picnic area with a magnificent view of the city (you can still take a dip, but at your own risk).
• The Bridge and the Island – The old bridge crosses the Vienne in two stages, finding support on the Île de Tours, which separates the river into two branches. The island is a green oasis with a few houses and small vegetable gardens. Once across the bridge, turn around to enjoy the view of the Fortress (to be done at dusk, when the site is illuminated). Under the bridge, the Guinguette Rabelaisienne (May to October) serves food and drinks, often with music in the evening.
• Place Mirabeau, rue Rabelais, rue du Commerce – Parallel to the banks of the Vienne. Numerous restaurants: try L’Océanic, L’Ardoise, At’Able, Isiris, and the Bar à Truffe (all on Rue Rabelais).
• Bike Rentals – La Petite Reine (on Rue du Commerce, offers bike rentals, including electric bikes).

Shopping

• Wines: At the Old Market (Old Market Square) – Couly-Dutheil Cellars (Diderot Street) – Plouzeau Cellars (Haute-Saint-Maurice Street) – The Wine Cabin (Town Hall Square) – Voltaire Cellar, La Dilettante (Voltaire Street) – Monplaisir Cellar (Pasteur Quay) – Silènes Cellar, Clos de l’Echo, Couly-Dutheil (Old Market Roundabout).

• Antiques & Flea Market: Lacoste Antique Bookstore (Rue Haute Saint-Maurice) – Au Vieux Marché – La Boutique Bleue – Monthly Flea Market (on the banks of the Vienne, 3rd Sunday of the month).

• Artisans and Artists: Xavier Rémon-Beauvais (goldsmith) – Atelier Incipit Liber (bookbinding, reading accessories, illuminations) – Les Artisanes de Touraine – Atelier Mimosa – Atelier Triphonoff – Atelier Blanchard.

• Gifts: Confluences (corner of Place de la Mairie) – Artisanes de Touraine (Rue Voltaire) – Grain de Papier, O’Range, Librairie Le Murmure (Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau) – Art and Envy (rue Rabelais) – Guyajeux; Alex’s Shop, lampshades (Rue du Commerce).

• Clothing – Quai Jeanne d’Arc: 100 Scrupules – Rue Rabelais: Territoire d’Homme, Terre et Passion (hunting clothes), Lucile (lingerie), Julia (women’s and men’s ready-to-wear) – Place de la Mairie: Confluences (accessories) – Rue J.J. Rousseau: La Boîte à Chapeaux, Lalaji (seasonal) – Rue du Commerce: Carnaby, La Fripothèque.

• Local specialties and delicacies – Fromagerie Gilbert (Rue J.J. Rousseau) – Maison AnDiYu (Place Mirabeau, caterer) – Boucherie l’Art de Vivre, Boucherie Martin (Rue J.J. Rousseau) – Tarte vigneronne from the Ayrole pastry shop (Rue Neuve de l’Hôtel-de-Ville) – Majuscule à Pâtisserie (Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau) – Gelateria Coco Mandarine (Place du Général De Gaulle) – Micro-brewery Brasse-Fort (Rue Voltaire) – Rue Rabelais: Bulgarian grocery store and La Cusisine d’Emma deli.

• Markets – Thursday market (Place Jeanne d’Arc) and Sunday market (Place de la Mairie).